Vogue Knitting Spring 2013: A Review

Let's have a look at the Vogue Knitting Spring 2013 issue, shall we?

Well, this is different. I'm not sure what my overall assessment of this is. I see much about it to admire. I like the concept of a surprise back view, and I can never resist the appeal of delicate knitted lace. I'm less admiring of the peplum in the back. I was going to say it would add bulk to the hips, but when I viewed the YouTube video of the design, it turns out that the draping does all get pulled to the back and doesn't show from the front. One needn't be a model to carry this look off.

I don't need to qualify my praise of this one. It's very pretty and easy to wear.

This isn't at all unattractive — in fact it's quite eye-catching — but I don't know how those exaggerated batwing sleeves would be like to wear. I keep imagining myself reaching across the table at mealtime and having the excess drape fall into the food.

Perfect little summer cardigan. I love the texture of it.

This sweater just doesn't have anything to recommend it. The striped effect looks like grandma's afghan and the cropped length and dropped shoulders aren't going to be flattering on most women. You can fix all those things, of course, but by that point you've made a completely different sweater, so why not choose a different pattern in the first place?

I know the side vent and longer back of this vest are supposed to look like a designer touch, but they just look as though the knitter accidentally made the back longer than the front and the side seams are coming apart. I'd made the two halves the same length and seam the sides all the way down to the hem. This little vest is perfectly attractive and striking on its own.

This mesh will catch on everything, probably won't feel good against your skin and you'll have to wear a complete outfit underneath it. And it's just not appealing. I can't really see the point, unless you really must have something to wear to No-Frills that will match your grocery bags.

Really striking and wearable and cute little dress! And it'll be easy to whip up.

This is not a look most women will feel comfortable in, and even those who do won't be able to wear it to all that many places. And it has the amateurish look of a beginner project.

Striking and very wearable little top.

Another striking and wearable and rather mod little dress. This dress and the last one have me wondering just how much time the designer or designers spent watching Mad Men. Can't you just see Megan Draper looking fab in either of these dresses?

Ah, another faux maternity top. Unless you have some sort of fetish for passing as pregnant, or actually are pregnant, I'd recommend shaping this top to fit. The graphic pattern is worth replicating.

The stripes are simple yet eye-catching and the texture on the sleeves is really something, but it's yet another cropped design. Unless you can get away with that shape in a top, make it a standard fit.

I suppose this is supposed to be some sort of updated version of the twin set (it's even worn with pearls) intended for a nineteen-year-old girl who goes clubbing a lot. I do quite like the cardigan. I'm imagining it done in a number of colours; it's a scrap yarn project designed by a professional. And the tank underneath could be easily lengthened, which would make it into something a woman could wear to a number of places. Sometimes Vogue Knitting just likes to rattle their sabres knitting needles in order to look edgy, but often a little tweaking is all that's needed to make a pattern into something the average woman can wear.

Very basic and rather nice sweater... with the longer back hem and side vent, AKA "the I got the front and back lengths mismatched and my side seams have started coming apart" look. I keep seeing this. It must be what's called "a thing". My question is, why is it a thing?

For this one I have an apt parable. A company where I used to work always held an annual formal Christmas dinner and dance at a nice hotel with good food and even offered generous draw prizes. We all enjoyed getting to dress up and it was always a nice evening. But there was one fly in the ointment: the DJs were always the worst DJs ever. There was one whose idea of a great dance song was something recorded by Jive Bunny and the Mastermixers. One year we had a D.J. that played songs that weren't bad but that we couldn't dance to at all. At one point he played "Sweet Home Alabama", and a co-worker's boyfriend sputtered, "Oh, now he's just fucking with us. He's up there going, 'All right, you honkies, let's see you trying to dance to this one.'" There were indeed about ten people on the dance floor gamely trying to dance to "Sweet Home Alabama", and it was not pretty. The lesson learned here is, this designer is trying to mess with us just to see if we'll cast our dignity to the winds and make ourselves something that they're pretending to offer in all seriousness as a wearable item of clothing, but that really isn't. Save yourself for a better pattern.

This, dear readers, is the knitting pattern equivalent of a "song" produced by Jive Bunny and the Mastermixers. It's... a shawl? or a baby blanket?... or some other item randomly stitched together to form a woman's sweater? And it makes no sense on either a aesthetic or practical level.

Did Vogue Knitting really leave those sleeve seams unstitched on purpose? I guess I know the answer to that one. However, while people will give the best-selling and most high-style knitting magazine in the world a pass on things like this, if you make this for yourself or someone else, no one will ever believe that you didn't just forget to stitch up the sleeves. I'd say stitch them up, and neaten up the fit, because this is a really beautiful lace-pattern top.

I was very leery of this one because it looked to me as though it were really unflattering through the hips, but I've checked out the You Tube video for this pattern, and it turns out it can be made either as a tunic or a dress, and the dress at least is is quite flattering and the textured design of the item is masterful.

This is a beautiful tunic, but I'm not crazy about the silhouette. Oh sure, this tall, slim model is carrying it off fairly well, but it's the kind of thing the rest of us end up looking frumpy and dumpy and pregnant in.

My younger sister and I each had a white, angora-like batwing sweater back in the eighties. It is actually one of the non-embarrassing items of clothing that appear in the Swan family photos of that era. And it's apparently come back in fashion. Well, as long as the wings aren't too exaggerated and the sweater is lightweight and drapes well, I must admit it's not a bad or unflattering silhouette. And this one is done in a beautiful lace pattern, so I must give it a pass.

Very pretty lace top.

I don't know about this one. It looks to me like the designer started out with what is actually kind of an interesting concept (a lace-pattern hooded vest), and didn't quite pull it off. I don't like the way this vest only buttons at the bodice and splits open down below. That style always makes an item look like it's too small. I'd be inclined to make this vest a standard rather than tunic length and to button it all the way down the front.

Nice shawl. Its proportions and weight are just right for this woman and her outfit. Shawls tend to look either too skimpy or too voluminous, and it's always awkward looking.

Very smart knitted bag. I do like the contrasting handles.

This isn't unflattering — it has good lines that suit its weight — but something like this tends to be impractical because it'll catch on everything and it has to be worn over another layer, which one doesn't want to have to do in the heat of the summer.

It used to be that people wore detachable collars and cuffs and pinned them to their shirts and blouses and sweaters. It was a practice that made sense back in the day because cuffs and collars soiled and wore out more quickly than the main garment and could be more easily laundered or replaced when they were separate items. Now knitting designers are trying to bring back the detachable collars — I keep seeing them.

I think the thing to remember is that, back when detachable collars were regularly worn, they weren't buttoned on randomly but carefully chosen to coordinate with the garments one was wearing. Of these collars the most pleasing are the coral and red collars, because they come the closest to looking as though they really belong on the top the model is wearing with them. I wouldn't recommend putting a collar on over your bare skin as has been done in the case where the model is wearing a tank top. You know who else puts collars over their bare throats without relating them to their tops? That's right, Chippendale dancers.

Knitting On and Off Camera

Image google "actresses knitting" and the search results will overwhelm you. In a job where many hours of a work day are spent simply waiting until the director summons you, knitting has long been the perfect movie set activity, because it's easily carried to work each day, can be relied on to involve as many hours of work as are necessary, can be picked up or dropped as needed, and won't mess up the actress's hairstyle, makeup, or costume. It's always been common and is popular even now: Cameron Diaz, Tyra Banks, Ryan Gosling, Hilary Swank, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kristin Davis, Kelly Ripa, Scarlett Johansson, Kate Moss, Kate Winslet, Debra Messing, Tracey Ullman, Uma Thurman, Russell Crowe, Christina Hendricks, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Antonio Banderas, Whoopi Goldberg, Stephen Fry, Tyne Daly, Judi Dench, Daryl Hannah, Sandra Bullock, Meryl Streep, Dakota Fanning, David Arquette, Amanda Seyfried, and Julia Roberts are all reputed to be knitters, and I am sure that's only a very incomplete list. Some of these actors taught each other to knit: Kristin Davis taught Sarah Jessica Parker; Catherine Zeta-Jones taught Antonio Banderas (when he recovering from a knee injury); Julia Roberts taught both Whoopi Goldberg and Cameron Diaz.

Many a Hollywood actress has been captured on camera in the act of peacefully knitting in a folding director's chair, some of them so often that one wonders how they found time to act. Here are some of my favourites from the golden age of film. I'm sure you've recognized the above photo as being one of Katharine Hepburn, who need only put down her knitting to look ready for a Vogue cover shoot.

Bette Davis crocheting while her stand-in knits. Bette Davis was one of the constant knitters and crocheters — I must have come across at least a dozen photos of her so engaged while researching this post.

Audrey Hepburn knitting. Her character knitted in Breakfast at Tiffany's, but as I recall it Holly Golightly didn't seem to be more than a beginning knitter. Maybe Hepburn deliberately made herself look less skilful to suit the role, because you can tell from this photo that she does know what she's doing.

Grace Kelly was another seemingly inveterate knitter.

Mary Pickford knitting a sweater for the American Red Cross.

Sophia Loren, making knitting look mod.

Vivien Leigh, putting Laurence Olivier to good use.

Mother and daughter Vanessa Redgrave and Natasha Richardson enjoying a teaching moment. I love little Natasha's expression of tongue-stuck-out concentration.

If you want to see some more Kodak knitting moments, you can check out some online collections here, here and here. Or just google the word knitting and the name of your favourite actress or actor. You may be surprised.

Coming up: the Vogue Knitting Spring 2013 review is set to post tomorrow morning!

Debbie Bliss Magazine Spring 2013: A Review

Until very recently I had thought that knitting designer and wool manufacturer Debbie Bliss didn't have a preview of her self-named knitting magazine, Debbie Bliss Magazine, online. I can be slow like that. But I have clued in and here's a review of the Debbie Bliss Magazine Spring 2013 issue.

Debbie Bliss has gone with a Great Gatsby theme for this issue. My guess is the issue was timed to coincide with the Leonardo diCaprio/Carey Mulligan version of The Great Gatsby that's due to come out in the spring of 2013. Which is smart marketing, although judging by its trailer, the movie looks like it might be a turkey. It features a very greasy and simian-looking Leo diCaprio improbably cast as Jay Gatsby, who is supposed to be coolly elegant, and I hope that's not the music they're going with. But, I'm always up for twenties- and literature-inspired fashion, I do love the book, and I think Debbie Bliss might just be making a statement by selecting a "Daisy" who looks far more like the Mia Farrow "Daisy" than the Carey Mulligan "Daisy".

Now, about the sweater. I like it. It's cute and smart and wearable and has some interesting detailing, such as shoulder buttons.

I think I like this cardigan, but can't be sure I do because I can't see enough of it. I can't see the shawl collar it purportedly has. I can't see how it's shaped or whether it fits properly. I wish fashion photographers wouldn't get so carried away with art direction that they forget that their first and most important task is to show us the clothes in the photo.

Debbie Bliss calls this a turban, but I'd be more inclined to call it a bandeau. Whatever it's called, I'm not sure how many women will want to wear it. Leave off the beading and it could be a nice alternative to a hat in winter, sure, but this is being presented as an evening accessory for spring wear. It'll be interesting to see how many knitters on Ravelry go for it and how they make it and wear it.

Very nice little beaded clutch.

Very cute version of a twenties tennis dress. I do wish we could see it from the front, though. I have my suspicions about how that skirt looks when viewed straight on.

I do like this, but with reservations. Long, loose tops like this can look really frumpy. If you're going to make this, make sure it's not too long on you, and think about shortening the sleeves a little and adding some waist-shaping. There's a reason why costume designers who are creating costumes for a twenties period piece usually cheat and nip in the waists.

This isn't bad, but again it could use a little shaping at the waist.

Nice little cardigan. I like the ribboned effect of the bobbles. Make sure you make it large enough that it meets in the front, and do consider making the sleeves a little shorter. That right-above-the-elbow sleeve length tends to look dowdy.

This isn't bad, but it isn't anything special either. If you want to make it, I'd rethink the sleeve length. Along with just above the elbow, a few inches above the wrist bone is another sleeve length that tends not to work. The sleeve winds up looking like it shrunk in the wash rather than as though it was styled that way.

This is another design that isn't bad but isn't anything special either. However, sometimes one just need a useful plain top that can be thrown on with jeans or skirts or whatever. I'd give the top a lift by shortening the sleeves a few inches.

Very pretty and delicate lace skirt. I wish there were some way of getting a clearer picture of what's going on with the hemline. I can't tell whether the hemline is longer at the back (which wouldn't be a good thing) or if it hangs down in points at each side (which would be fine) or what. Be prepared to wear a slip with this one.

The description for this pattern calls it a "comfy jacket". I'd call it a shawl with sleeves. I'd invent a new word to describe it (slawl? shawket?) except I'm afraid it would catch on as "slanket" has apparently done. It isn't a bad design and might be a useful item for when you just need a little extra warmth and don't need to do any physical work in it. The description also says this item is "irresistible for morning rambles through field and farm".

Hahahahahahahahahaha! People who have idyllic, pastoral notions of farm life are so cute! This shawl/jacket would get nettles in it and catch on stalks and branches, as would this delicate, floaty, ground-length dress. Watch out for that cow-pie. And the groundhog hole.

Oh dear. This chevron pattern halter top, while not at all a bad piece of design, would be seriously hard to wear. As you can see, even this lovely professional model who has been dressed by professional stylists hasn't quite been able to get away with it. It's so difficult to get the proper foundation garment underneath this kind of top (even a strapless bra will probably show at the back), and the fact is that most of us who are over fifteen and a double A cup size need that support. If you aren't flat-chested and you want to make this top for yourself, resolve the support issue first. And good luck with that.

Quite nice. This is a much more wearable style for a woman who wants to show some skin without ruining her silhouette.

Darling. Debbie Bliss is so good at designing children's clothes that are wearable and classic and cute in a not-too-precious way. I have two of her books and have knitted I don't know how many patterns out of them.

Cute fair isle child's vest. This is an item that will keep getting passed down to younger siblings and cousins and friends' and neighbour's children as long as it's in good shape.

Nice, simple dress. I'd make it longer and then when the child gets too tall to wear it as a dress, pair it with leggings. Putting it over a skirt, especially a full one, makes for too bulky and awkward a silhouette.

I'm not crazy about this one. It is cute, but in a quaint, dated sort of way. I don't think it's a good idea for parents to dress their children in a too-whimsical and quirky way that bears no reference to what other children are wearing. Admittedly this little boy is too young to care about such issues.

Nice, useful little vest. You can put your little guy in this vest and a coordinating shirt and cords if you want to dress him up for some special event and it'll be the little boy's equivalent of semi-formal wear.

Darling little eyelet cardigan that will go with all a little girl's dresses, or over a t-shirt and jeans.

Beautiful, delicate lace shawl. Which even the Debbie Bliss editors didn't suggest as suitable farm wear.

Another one of those combination shawl/sweaters. I am seriously skeptical about how this sort of thing will look on women who don't have a model's figure. It'll just wind up looking saggy and droopy and sad and cause problems for the front view when it lies alongside the breasts.

Lovely little classic cabled cardigan. There's a reason why women have been wearing sweaters very much like this one for the past eight decades straight.

This little cardigan says, "I'm from 1955 and if I could make a girl with a scarf-tied ponytail and a poodle skirt look cute, just think what I can do for you!" This sweater probably will look quite good on you and go with a lot of your trousers and skirts. Though if you're large-breasted, I'd avoid it. It will look matronly rather than sporty.

The description for this item says it's knitted all in one piece in a single rib with batwing sleeves and has a "super flattering shape". I wish I could see it better in this photo so as to determine that for myself, but I think it's probably a competently designed simple little top a woman could wear quite a lot.

Here's another cute little top that will go with your jeans and a number of your skirts. I'd make it a little longer though. That cropped length just isn't all that flattering on most women.

Great concept here: sewing a thematically matched fabric backing to a blanket. It makes for a very sharp look. I'm imagining this done with a striped fabric/afghan. But having gone to all the work of making this blanket, I doubt I'd take it on a picnic and risk getting it dirty and grass-stained. I note the photo stylist went with astroturf rather than risk that.

Useful, basic tote. I notice the designer has managed to endow this tote with an impressive sturdiness; it's keeping its crisp lines despite having a not inconsiderable amount of stuff in it. It's fabric-lined, and probably has a fairly heavy-duty interlining in it as well.

Love this cherry pillow. That is one really well-designed graphic; very simple and striking.

Another nice cherry motif pillow. These pillows will work really well together and can also stand on their own. Or you could make a pillow with the single cherry on it and then an afghan to match with the smaller, repeating cherry pattern.

Not a bad bottle cozy, though I'd do it in a solid colour. Of course a common jibe at crafters is that we put cozies on everything, but it does make sense to put cozies on things that need to be kept hot or cold. And it would be nice to cover up a bottle that was probably some corporate promo item and is kind of ugly with its own little cabled sweater.

This isn't a bad design for what it is... but before you decide to invest the time in making it, I'd think about how much you're going to use it. I see a lot of picnic baskets at thrift shops. People think they're going to use them and then they don't. If you really already do a lot of camping or picnicking and can use it for that, go for it. Otherwise... avoid knitting projects that you intend to change your life to use, because it doesn't usually work that way. It's best to knit for the life you have.

To See Our Knitting as Others See It

The caption specifies that this is about knitting designers, but I think it also has a near-perfect application to knitters in general.