Friday 13 March 2020

Interweave Crochet Winter 2020: A Review


Today marks a slight departure for the site. I have never reviewed a crochet magazine before, but have been asked a number of times over the years to consider doing so. I have finally come to the point of deciding I will try crochet design reviewing on for size, and see how I do with it and what the response is. I can crochet (the receipts are here and here), and have spoken out about the value of crochet, but am not as skilled at crochet as I am with knitting, so I hope you'll all bear with me as I take a stab -- or should I say a right hook? -- at reviewing Interweave Crochet's Winter 2020 issue.





Bergschrund Shrug. This isn't bad -- it hangs pretty well and is simple enough to work with a variety of looks. The back looks pretty good too.





But I can't say I care for the second suggested way to wear this shrug -- it has a choppy, awkward look, and I'd be inclined to think the wearer put it on in the dark and hasn't caught sight of herself in the mirror since.





Carmine Wrap. The Tunisian stitchwork looks a little crude for my liking, but kudos to the styling department, who have made this scarf look almost chic.





Catena Scarf. The two-colour relief is a pretty decent effect.





Chill Snowman. This is really cute, but I do get the feeling that this snowman would ignore me if I asked him for directions to the North Pole.





Cooper Scarf. Pretty basic, but wearable enough.





Drumlin Scarf. Love both the texture and the yarn used here, and this wrap drapes so well.





Esker Cowl. Nice use of a gradient yarn and a simple ridged texture.





Firn Capelet. I'm not really sold on this hooded capelet, which bears slightly too much resemblance to some kind of amorphous blob that is eating this woman's head.





Foldover Mitts. Not bad. I can't help but think wistfully how much they look like a ribbed pair of knitted mitts.;)





Journal Cover. I like the idea, but find the execution a little crude. I'd be inclined to sew the leather part to the crocheted part with a sewing machine rather than using that uneven running stitch. One can glimpse the original cover of the notebook at the bottom in one of the shots, which bugs me, but I don't know how those could be entirely hidden.





Kame Cowl. I don't much like this, but I think I'd like it better if it weren't for the colour scheme. Those gray and aqua colours do nothing for each other.





Ogive Cardigan. I have my suspicions as to how this pleasant little cardi sits and/or hangs when the wearer isn't pulling on it with both hands.





Randkluft Scarf. This has a haphazard, "crocheted out of scrap pieces of yarn which ran out in random points in the row" look.





Rimaye Cowl. I'm actually really digging the contemporary objet d'art vibe of this one. It's Tunisian crochet, which is why it looks so much like knitting.





Sashiko Clutch. Sashiko is a form of Japanese embroidery that dates back to the seventeenth century. The embroidery on this little clutch, which borrows from that tradition, is really quite smart and eye-catching.





Serac Pullover. The collar says, "Snuggle down and get comfortable!". The open stitch texture says, "Have an intimate encounter with every draft and protrusion/rough surface in your vicinity!" I can't deny I rather like the look of this piece, but it is wildly impractical.





Sheepback Scarf. Pretty wrap.





Wee Bandana. I suppose if you've always wanted to make your wee baby or widdle pet look like a wee outlaw, this might be just the thing. On a slightly more practical note, it will also work as a bib, and be a chance for beginner to expand their Tunisian crochet technique.

Wednesday 11 March 2020

Vogue Knitting Late Winter 2020: A Review


Vogue Knitting has released their Late Winter 2020 issue. Let's have a look at it, shall we?





#01, Overlapping Patches. When I saw the preview photo for this design on the VK website, I thought how much it looked like a Kaffe Fassett pattern. And then, upon viewing its Ravelry page, I learned it was in fact a Kaffe Fassett piece. His aesthetic is as distinctive as a fingerprint. The quilt-like design is a fun direction for knitting, and his colourway is masterful as always.





#02, Sunday Brunch. A very decent casual, relaxed piece. The collar sits well.





#03, Tea Time. The cardigan's nice, but I'm not sure how I feel about the combination of the (attached) collar and the standard v-neck of the cardigan. It looks a bit silly to me, but then it is a new look, and sometimes I mellow (or simply get worn down) on a new look that I disliked at first after I have had time to get used to them.





#04, Cocktail Hour. No need for me to mellow on this look -- I love it and would totally wear it myself. It makes me think of Joan Holloway's dictum of 1960, "Men like scarves." (For the record, I don't think men do find scarves an especial draw on women, and that 15-20 years later a more liberated Joan Holloway Harris would put it, "I like scarves.")





#05, Striped Pullover. This is an interesting and smart contemporary look. While I'm prone to suggest neatening up the fit/shape of designs, in this case I wouldn't, as I think this is a design that requires a loose shape and geometric lines.





#06, Fluo Flow. This one verges on afghan territory, but I think it remains just within bounds of wearing apparel. I rather like the way they've styled it.





#07, Ringwald. A classic open front cardigan.





#08, Ice Pop. I love the tartan pattern, but I would correct the dropped shoulders. I'm not crazy about the colourway, but then few knitters use the sample colours/yarn anyway. Picking out colours you love is part of the fun of knitting your own pieces.





#09, Vibes. Not bad. I won't suggest fixing the dropped shoulders, because I think that the lines of the brioche stitchwork make them work in this case, but I would suggest a new colourway, as this one is a little retina-searing.





#10, Geode. Very much like this one, with its striking abstract yoke detail.





#11, Gamine. Comfy "around home" sweater.





#12, Kyoto. This cowl is essentially a lovely sampler of knitting patterns. It looks better worn double than in "deflated inner tub" style, of course, but I've used this photo so you can see the stitchwork in it.





#15, Lady Susan. This collar is a lovely thing in itself, but I am not sure how one would actually wear it. I don't like the way it's styled here -- I think a crewneck sweater would pair better with this collar.





#16, Wentworth. With the last pattern ("Lady Susan"), we entered a Jane Austen category of design, in which the aesthetic takes a turn for the antique. The stitchwork on this capelet is beautiful, and it will add a touch of period drama to a classic outfit.





#17, Miss Bingley. This looks like one of the lesser designs in Knit Simple. Poor Caroline Bingley not only did not succeed in attracting Mr. Darcy, but must needs be saddled with... this.





#18, Morland. Love this one. It's both handsome and practical.





Neutral Gear Cabled Turtleneck. This a "from the archives" design, originally published in the 2002 special men's issue. It's classic menswear.





Lattice Cabled. Another reprint, this time from the Holiday 1986 issue. It's aged just as well as the previous pattern, which is to say -- not at all. But then that's menswear for you.

Monday 9 March 2020

Noro Magazine Fall/Winter 2019: A Review


Today we're going to have a look at Noro Magazine's Fall/Winter 2019 issue.





#01, Rambler Ruana. This would be fine if it came anywhere close to fitting properly. This model looks like a little girl who's playing dress-up in her mother's clothes.





#02, Turtleneck Pullover. This is better -- it's oversized, but not ridiculously so, and the shaping and cable detailing is good. I'd just fix the dropped shoulders.





#03, Open Cardigan. Love the colourful stripe pattern, but would neaten up the fit considerably.





#04, Long Cardigan. This isn't so bad aesthetically speaking, but I can't imagine wearing something like this. It would be constantly getting into everything and catching on things.





#05, Center-Cable Pullover. I like this one on the whole, but that centre cable does have a slightly not-quite-working look. I think what I would do is work five or six cable repeats, instead of only four. Then there wouldn't be those long uncabled stretches at the bottom and top, which look as though the cable is reaching out its strands to strangle the wearer.





#06, Gradient Cable Pullover. I wouldn't change a thing about this design.





#07, Eyelet Wrap. This isn't a bad piece, but I can't get away from the feeling that it would look better on a couch than on a person.





#08, Tabard-Style Turtleneck. I like this piece in the main, but I can't say I think those sad, skimpy ties at the side are working, visually speaking. I'd attach some actual buttoned tabs, or make a belt for it, or contrive some other sort of fastening that has a bit more polish.





#09, Two-Direction Poncho. This normally wouldn't be at all my kind of design, but I kind of like it. The yarn and the stitchwork are pleasing, and the shaping/size is restrained enough that it wouldn't be a pain to wear.





#10, Pointed Poncho. I'm a hard sell on a poncho at the best of times, but I just cannot even with this mutant poncho. It's so bad that the stylists clearly decided, "Fuck it, let's just dress this model like a clown with an MBA in circus administration." Even the poor model's expression is all, "Look, I'm doing my best here under the circumstances by making sure you can see the one nice thing I've been given to wear for this shoot. JUST LOOK AT MY BEAUTIFUL RING."




#11, Poncho. Cutting a hole in the centre of an afghan and knitting a ribbed turtleneck into it does not an attractive or practical item of wearing apparel make.





#12, Wave Pattern Poncho. Love the undulating lines of colour in this piece. It would look nice on a couch.





#13, Fiesta Scarf. This is a lovely lace and cable stole that did not need to be tarted up with both pom poms and tassels. (Of the two, I'd ditch the pom poms.)





#14, Wavy Triangle Shawl. An understated, contemporary take on the shawl that will work well with many a modern outfit. Very nice!





#15, Slouchy Hat. Pretty decent cap. I like the vivid play of colour in it.





#16, Cowl. Not bad. The design is dead simple but workable, and the colours would brighten up a neutral outfit.





#17, Hat and Fingerless Mitts. Nice stitchwork and perfect shaping, and the yarn is attractive.





#18, Slip Stitch Cowl. This is rather a nice little piece. I admire the designer's eye for colour. I'm not sure I would ever have thought of pairing a dark coral with a variegated blend of purples, turquoise, lime, and fuchsia, but it works.





#19, Short-Row Shawl. This one is essentially a piece of wearable contemporary art.





#20, Rectangular Shawl. A handsome, classic piece.





#21, A-Line Pullover. This one is a very wearable nice-looking piece. The yarn and the use of stockinette, reverse stockinette, and garter trim give it all the visual interest and polish it needs. It's oversized but not sloppily so, and look, the shoulder seam is in exactly the right place.





#22, Cable Rib Pullover. Love the yarn and the stitchwork, but I'd shorten up the sleeves, neaten up the fit, and add a little waist shaping. This looks a bit dumpy and boxy as is.




#23, Hat. A nice, simple little cap.





#24, Asymmetrical Pullover. LOVE the fun colourway here, and I like the asymmetrically pieced design. I would raise the dropped shoulder and neaten up the fit somewhat.





#25, Stockinette Vest. Not a bad piece at all, but I'm not sure I like the ribbing that runs down the sides, and according to the description, forms the back neckband. I wish there were side- and back-view photos provided.





#26, Fingerless Mitts. These aren't hard to look at, but I'm not sure I would like those bands of garter stitch around my hands -- I think I might find them awkwardly bulky.





#27, Cowl-Neck Pullover. I don't like the sit of the cowl neck and the sleeves are too short -- this sweater looks less like it was designed to be the way it was than it appears to be the result of several technical mistakes.





#28, Textured Vest. Not a bad open front vest -- it sits well.





#29, Horizontal Cable Cardi. Handsome and wearable. I would just fix the dropped shoulders.





#30, Textured Panel Pullover. Not bad, though I'm not quite satisfied with the sit of that neckline. I might rework the neckline, and I would add a little waist shaping.





#31 Poncho/Shawl. The play of colour over the stockinette stitch is attractive, but this style of wrap has never made much sense to me -- such pieces tend to look like an unfinished project.