Hat Couture: A Review

Today we're going to have a look at Hat Couture, by Theressa Silver. Hats, as many of you will know, used to be an expected part of every properly attired woman's ensemble. My mother wore hats and gloves routinely as young woman in the late fifties and early sixties, though she was able to lay both aside more and more often as the years passed. She tells me that church was the last bastion of hat-wearing, but during the seventies women gradually ceased to wear hats even there, with the exception of a few die-hard conservatives who went determinedly hatted for the rest of their days. (Grandma Swan, I'm thinking of you.) My mother was not one of those clutching a hat in reactionary, gloved fingers. She says, "I was so glad when they went out. Hats never looked good on me and I don't like them." As far back as my memory goes, my mother has only worn knitted hats in cold weather. Thinking of that, I can't regret that hat wearing is now voluntary. Grace Mirabella, who was editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine from 1971 to 1988, wrote in her memoir In and Out of Vogue that at one point she faced much pressure to feature hats in Vogue and refused to do so, because she was another hat refusenik and felt it would be regressive and not at all in line with her ideal of low-maintenance modern style. I agree with Mirabella's larger point. God knows women are subjected to enough societal pressure when it comes to their appearances as it is.

But I say all this as a big fan of the hat. It's a good thing that the hat has become something to enjoy, rather than a requirement. Having inherited my father's facial shape rather than my mother's, I do like both wearing hats and making them, but as a work-at-home freelancer, don't often get dressed up enough to wear one other than for warmth in winter and to fend off sunburn/scoldings from my dermatologist in summer. I compromise by selecting hats that are practical and wearable and yet have some style. The thirteen hat designs in Hat Couture are generally good bets for this sort of modern hat lover. Because they're knitted, a number of them would be quite practical to wear with a winter coat, and there are also a few fun confections for those who do have occasion and the sense of style to wear a hat out of the ordinary.

Just as an aside, Hat Couture's chosen system for noting difficulty levels of its designs demonstrates praiseworthy levels of commitment to all things hat, as do the hat-themed quotes from various entertainment and literary luminaries that are sprinkled throughout the book.

The Audrey. Each of the hat designs in this book are named for a legend from Hollywood's golden age. It's telling that we only need the first name to know which star is meant, and the conceit gets even better when you know that most of the women named were knitters themselves. The trimming you use will be what gives this simple turban-style hat its style.

The Jackie. I never have cared much for the pillbox style, but I do like this one. It's the trim that makes it.

The Grace. My hat is off to the woman who can make this look work on her. I can see it working on a bride who is having a less formal wedding. With less dramatic trimming, it could work for everyday wear.

The Marlene. A knitted top hat. I can see this one getting a lot of traction with the steampunk crowd. As unusual as this hat might seem, I note that it has more projects, is in more queues, and has far more favourites on Ravelry than any of other patterns in this book.

The Dorothy. I like the body of this one, though I think I would find a different sort of trim for it. The top of it has circular stripes on it, so I think I might make a rosette that has corresponding layers or stripes of the same two colours.

The Lucille. I like the shape of this hat, and the bow, but am not so taken with the button. Buttons with holes do tend to look kitschy when used purely for decorative purposes. I'd use a shank-style button or a brooch instead.

The Carmen. Again, I like the body of this hat, but it has more buttons and a rather inelegant look to the trimming. If this hat seems a little over the top for you, it could always be made in a slouchier, more quietly trimmed fashion.

The Clara. This is a cute cloche, though I would be inclined to go with a knitted or crocheted flower here rather than a silk one, pretty as this one is.

The Gracie. Again, I like the body of this hat a lot, but the trimming really isn't working for me. This looks rather like a silk scarf was stuffed into the brim to get it out of the way. I think I'd go with a simple ribbon band and bow or floral decoration here.

The Greta. Really liking the shape of this one. I wouldn't have thought garter stitch could ever show such flair. The feathers used here may seem a little much but a simple bow or brooch would also do.

The Lauren. A simple, useful beret.

The Mary. Love this one, except for the buttons. The threaded ribbons are a lovely touch, and I think I would either tie them in bows or use them to make a rosette.

The Bette. This might be the least wearable of all the patterns in this book, as the other hats have classic shapes but this shape is one that hasn't been in since the 1940s, unless you count Disney's Robin Hood from 1973. However, one of the benefits of the relaxed, pluralistic style we now enjoy is that almost anything goes these days. I can see this working on a young, fetching hipster type. But then that type can make just about anything work, can't they?