Sunday 14 July 2013

Knit n' Style October 2013: A Review

The October 2013 issue of Knit n' Style is out, and I've made all the jokes I think I can make about their wildly mismatched dating of their magazine's issues, so let's just take a look at the designs on offer, shall we?





I don't know about Arianna Vest. It's not terrible, but it doesn't have any exemplary qualities either. It's neither unflattering or flattering, neither sharp nor ugly. Which probably means I should advise you to keep looking for a vest pattern that is smart and flattering. And I will say that if you do want to make this one, make sure the buttons don't protrude past the edge of the bodice when it's buttoned. That always makes a garment look poorly made and too small.





This is the crocheted version of the Arianna Vest above. The same comments apply. Though at least the buttons are properly placed on this one.





Here we have a Intentional Stripes Cowl that's neither great nor terrible. And I don't know how warm it will keep your neck when it's as open as this one.





The Aeryn is a well-designed classic cabled cardigan. But then you probably already have a very similar pattern in your pattern library.





I actually don't mind this Monarch Scarf. Sometimes a novelty-yarn scarf can be the perfect accessory for a simple outfit. I don't know why they paired it with a rumpled leopard pattern blazer, though. Not only is the colourway dreary, the combination makes this model look like a leopard that has just made a meal out of an ostrich.





This Teddie Hooded Vest looks like something out of a seventies-era craft magazine — and the seventies are not known for the aesthetic or technical excellence of their craft kits and patterns. A hooded open-front vest isn't a bad concept, but that blue trim is doing this pattern no favours. Are the blue lines on the front panels supposed to be asymmetrical? Because they look like an accident. If you want to make this pattern, I'd make it all in a solid colour and put some kind of fastener at the top (or all the way down the front), rather than that tie.





Oh dear. This Lacy Rib Pullover is not good. The variegated yarn used on the sleeves is just hideous. The lace pattern on the bodice is really enough detail for this sweater — it didn't need a competing visual interest, particularly an overpoweringly ugly visual interest. This sweater would look about twenty times more attractive if the whole thing had been done in just one solid colour yarn. I'm not crazy about the ruffled edgings, which look a little chintzy, but I think they might work if the sweater is done in a pale shade, or perhaps black, to give the look a feminine, lingerie-like look.





I do quite like this Bold Stripes Pullover. The colourway is good, it's striking, it's a little different, and yet it's totally wearable. My one nitpick is that the cowl doesn't lie all that well, but it does show to better advantage on the cover shot for this issue, so perhaps it just wasn't arranged well here. Yes, this design is the cover look for the October 2013 issue, which is good because it's the strongest and most eye-catching design of this issue and Knit n' Style usually doesn't put their best design on the cover for some reason.





I like this Galway Jacket design too. The collar and cuffs are so pretty and the workmanship is good overall.





I have been peering at this Diagonal Rib Pullover design for about ten minutes and I honestly can't tell what's going on with it. The sock yarn and the stitchwork combined make it look like a knitted version of camouflage. But I give it a qualified approval, as it does look like a fairly decent design, though perhaps you may wish to knit it in a solid yarn, as a intricate pattern combined with a variegated yarn can wind up looking a little muddled. And to wear it with a crew neck t-shirt, as that v-neck is a little too open and it's not exactly flattering on this model's neck.





The Stansborough Sheep Jacket is really, really basic. This is a sweater that calls for a great quality yarn in the kind of colour that makes your day, because doing it in gray makes it look just too utilitarian.





The Tweed Deluxe Pullover is another very basic design, and the shape of it is pretty seriously unflattering even on this model. I'd definitely bypass this one. A very simple sweater needs great lines.





This is the Modesto design. And I know menswear must be seriously boring to design and I'm willing to give this designer points for effort and for trying to think out of the box and come up with a fresh new concept, but this sweater looks more like a bad upcycling project than a sweater most men would like to wear.





The Fairy-Slipper Shrug actually isn't bad. It's neither shrug nor spencer but is the happy offspring of both. I know I have taken lots of potshots at spencers, but I suppose that's probably largely because I simply can't wear one myself. And I couldn't wear this either. But quite a lot of women can, and that is what matters.





The baggy cropped sleeves and those ugly buttons are doing the Vine Lace Cardi no favours, but other than that it's not bad.





The design of the Summer Days Tank isn't bad, but it's hard to see past the awfulness of the yarn selection. It's a silk yarn too. Why would anyone dye silk in those wretched colours? Were they molested by a silkworm in another life? When I do my best to look beyond the yarn, I see the tank is reasonably well-shaped, has an airy texture that should be comfortable in summer, and has nicely finished edges.





The Diagonal Stripes Vest is interesting conceptually and has obviously been designed with a lot of thought and care... but I can't see any of the women I know actually wearing it. Well, I do have one friend with a very modern dress sense whom I think could pull it off. I'm gathering from the ties at the front that this could be worn tied. I wish we'd been given a photo of how it looked worn that way.





The Nerina design looks frumpy on this model and is going to look even more so on woman with anything other than a model's figure. Baggy elbow-length sleeves are such a bad idea.





I quite like this Lace Columns Dress, though I'd like it even more if it hadn't been done in a variegated glitter yarn. It just cheapens what could be a really elegant, polished look, and limits where a woman can wear the dress.





Can't say I'm a fan of the Yorganza Scarf, which basically looks like a crumpled manuscript. The Yorganza yarn is an interesting one, but I'm not sure I've seen a good use for it yet. Usually it just looks like an amateur sewing project.





Quite like the Feathery Waves Tam. It has interesting stitchwork and a good shape.





The Trend Deluxe Scarf could definitely work on a woman who has a very modern dress sense and who tends to favour graphic patterns and lines.





The Flirtatious Bag looks like it needs to pay its bar bill and tell the bartender to call it a cab, because otherwise it's going to wake up empty in a back alley the next morning without any idea of how it got there. Novelty yarns can work for a clutch or a drawstring bag, but using it on a larger scale as in a shoulder bag like this is just too over the top and looks cheap and tacky.





Not sure about the shape of the Bressay Cowl. It looks like a hood that's on backwards.





The Fair Isle Hat is really cute. I love those little tulips. You can skip the pom-pom if you want to make the look more adult.





I like the Zigzag Cable Cowl. It sits well, it looks warm, and it's a quality piece that can be worn anywhere.





The Twist ‘n Twirl Shawlette isn't bad. It's a very summery accessory in those colours, so if you're thinking of it as a fall piece I'd go with yarn in a shade from the fall or winter palette.





This is the Yorganza Cowl, which again has that beginner sewing project look to it. Although it's not helped by the styling here. It's too light and flirty a piece to look good with a leather jacket.





The Barleycorn Socks are interesting. I like the twisted effect of it, which gives it an interesting arty appeal that works well on a small scale.

Saturday 13 July 2013

So You Think You Can Knit....



Who will win the giant needle, and who will go home in despair and start crocheting? Check out the drama, the joy, and the heartbreak that is the finale of So You Think You Can Knit.

Coming up: Look for the review of the October 2013 issue of Knit n' Style tomorrow morning!

Friday 12 July 2013

Knitting a Wig to Flip


For today's post I've selected eleven examples of yarn wigs for your inspiration and entertainment. They're not something one can wear in daily life, obviously, but they'd form a pretty funny part of a costume for Halloween or some kind of fancy dress event, and might even make a good gift for a cancer patient who has the right sense of humour (pro tip: check with the person in advance). The above is the Princess Leia Wig, and the pattern is available for $7.95(USD). You can also make a Leia wig for your baby.





If you've always been more of a Trekkie than a Star Wars type, you can make a Spock wig. The pattern is available for free.





Sadly, there doesn't seem to be pattern for this Elvis wig, and the website on which it originally appeared is down, but perhaps you can make a replica using the photo as your guide. There is another Elvis wig pattern available for free on Ravelry but it's pretty... over the top. Literally.





If you're into Revolutionary War re-enactments, this might be perfect for turning you into a British naval captain. The pattern is available for free on the blog Bel far niente.





If you've got a Thing 1 and possibly also a Thing 2 at home, you can have lots of good fun that is funny by making these wigs for them. The pattern is available for $5(USD.)





This Hallowig pattern is available for free on Knitty and seems to have been widely used — there are loads of them depicted on the internet. They remind me of the hair on the old-style girl character Lego pieces from thirty or more years ago.





I can't decide whether crocheting this Cabbage Patch Kid wig would be a demonstration of good or bad parenting, but you can buy the pattern for $5.99(USD) and find out for yourself.





The next time you feel like sailing the seven seas and doing some plundering and pillaging, you'll have the headgear for it! This Viking hat and wig is a free pattern.





I might just have to make this Desperate Hausfrau wig myself and put it with the rest of my landlady costume (bifocals, shapeless housedress, stockings in rolls around my ankles, scuzzy slippers, eight mangy cats and a nasty-tempered, hyper little dog) in order to scare the back rent out of my tenant. This wig design is a free pattern from Knitty.





If the curler do above doesn't appeal, you can also be another kind of desperate housewife, Marge Simpson. This pattern is available for free.





Of course I can't do a really comprehensive wig post unless I include an example of a merkin, which is a wig for um, down there. Pretty Prudent posted this one as an April Fool's joke. My hat (or wig as the case might be) is off to them for actually getting someone to model it. And staging it with a wine glass was a classy touch, don't you think? There's no pattern available, but if you're determined to go there.... it shouldn't be too hard to copy.

Thursday 11 July 2013

A Brainwave of a Design


Artists Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet, and a PhD candidate and MTG researcher, Sebastian Mealla, all based in Barcelona, have come up with a unique design concept for knitwear: neuro knitting. They make a computer recording of a person's brainwaves by having him or her wear an EEG headset for about ten minutes, translate the brainwaves into a graph using software, and then use the graph as a pattern for a scarf made on an open hardware knitting machine. You can see one of the resulting scarves in the picture above, modelled by Mealla.






You can see the neuro knitting production process in action by viewing the video above and read more about the project here. Guljajeva, Canet, and Mealla have only made two scarves so far but have received a lot of requests for personalized scarves and plan to make bespoke neuro knits for sale at £180 each. The scarves do seem like they might be the perfect Christmas or birthday gift for, say, a neurology researcher or EEG technician.

Wednesday 10 July 2013

Miss Havisham's Nightgown and Other Knitting Fables


When people asked Marta where she came up with such design concepts, she just smiled and said that like all true artists, her sources of inspiration were many and varied: tangled present ribbons after present opening on Christmas morning; yarn after her cat had played with it; the few childhood Slinkys she had that always immediately got tangled; her hair if she forgot to use conditioner in the shower....





Elaine felt knitting should be pure art, above such paltry considerations as darning in ends or sewing side seams.





After Abby switched her major from English literature to clothing design, she put her literary studies to good use by using them as a source of inspiration, such as in her latest effort, which she called "Miss Havisham's Nightgown".





Sometimes Robin and her boyfriend John liked to indulge themselves in a little Robin Hood and Little John role play in a nearby forest. John had made them a rustic trailer as shelter for their time in the woods and Robin had made knitted green coats and feathered hats and bought tights for both of them. They'd thought their friend Marian, who was a history major and who loved Ren Faires, might like to join them for some swordplay, but when they asked she'd only sniffed and said their props weren't period accurate.





Jordan now knew that his high school counsellor had been full of it. After all, Jordan had carried out that guidance counsellor's advice to the letter. He'd followed his heart, found work he loved, and given his creative impulses free rein, and he was still bowed down by existential angst.





Portia had not been sure what one wore to compete in the Abominable Snowpeople's "Snow Princess" competition, but she really hoped she had come up with something appropriate, because it was her understanding that unsatisfactory Snow Princess contestants got eaten for breakfast, and she had some uneasy suspicions about what exactly was entailed in the winner's "prize".





Dominique was having one of those days when she just couldn't wait to show off her latest knitting project, her latest crochet project, her latest beading project, and the latest hair and makeup techniques she'd learned, all at once. Hey, it wasn't her fault she was so multi-talented.





Bianca was on a one-women mission to destroy all those old crocheting stereotypes. She was determined to show everyone that granny squares could be bad ass.





Shelley and Brian just had one of "those" marriages and they couldn't bear to be apart. Their wedding song was "Every Breath You Take" and they'd put a "love toilet" on their wedding registry (although they hadn't gotten one and had had to save up for one themselves). They liked to wear matching outfits, but that didn't seem to bring them close enough, so Shelley made them a real togetherness outfit out of pieces from several of their old sweaters.





"I have devised a strategy to make you take me back to the animal shelter so I can be adopted by someone who respects my dignity or at least isn't completely insane. It's called 'Operation Howl'."

Tuesday 9 July 2013

Stripes and Swagger: a Selection of Knitting Patterns from 1930-1939


Well, here we are at the fourth post in my twentieth century knitting pattern series (you can see the other posts in the series here), which features a selection of knitwear designs dating from 1930 to 1939. I have been looking forward to doing this particular post for weeks. The thirties are my favourite decade of the twentieth century in terms of clothing fashion because the clothes were not only wearable in the modern sense but flattering while still holding to a certain old school sartorial standard, and the result is ever so stylish. In the twenties the ideal figure for women was boyish and women's clothing tended to be more than a little on the shapeless side; in the thirties the Jazz babies grew up and took to well-tailored womanly styles that looked better on most women. (I mean, have you seen Gosford Park? All those bias-cut evening gowns are to die for. If I may say that about a murder mystery.) This post was also made more rewarding to write because it is the first one in the Twentieth Century series for which I could finally find and include authentic menswear patterns.

All that aside, let's get started and have a look at the ten 1930s patterns I've selected.





This is the Swagger Scarf, which has definite Art Deco look to it. It's a free pattern and is all in garter stitch so it's a straightforward pattern to knit.






This is the cute and striking Tennis Blouse pattern in both its original form and in a modern version. It's a free pattern.





This is Tennis Jumper pattern, which again reflects the prevalence of the the Art Deco aesthetic during the thirties. I'm terribly sorry for the poor quality of this photo. I liked the sharply graphic design so much I wanted to include it, though I know poor visuals like this make it difficult for many people to see the appeal. Perhaps one of you will knit this design and send me a photo of yourself modelling it so I can add it to the post. This pattern originally appeared in The Western Mail (which was an Australian newspaper) on December 10, 1931, and is a free pattern. I do wish newspapers had kept up the practice of including free patterns up until the rise of the internet and Ravelry, especially if they were as nice as this one.





This striped sweater was printed in The Australian Women's Weekly, on July 29, 1933, and is a free pattern. It was common for thirties-era sweaters to be what we'd call a cropped length now, so if you want to make any of these patterns you will probably want to lengthen them. This one will look better lengthened because the extra inches down below will balance out the stripes on the top.





This lace evening gown is the Alora pattern. A number of Ravelry members who are making it appear to be making it for their wedding gowns or bridesmaid dresses. It appeared in the Minerva Style Book, Volume 33 in 1934. This pattern is available for free, but you can also buy the book it's in from Iva Rose Vintage Reproductions for $16.95. The Minerva pattern books are all very stylish, which is probably to be expected given that they became part of the Condé Nast publishing group and then morphed into the original Vogue Knitting. If you love thirties knitwear fashions, I recommend a browse through the collection of thirties pattern books on the Iva Rose site.





How modern-looking is this zip front men's cardigan? It looks like it's straight out of knit.wear. It is pretty basic, but I think the good lines and the flap pockets give it some style. This pattern was originally published in Minerva Men's Book, Volume 37, in 1934, and the book is available from Iva Rose Vintage Reproductions for $16.95.





The Starring Stripes pattern appeared in Stitchcraft in November 1936 and is a free pattern. There are so many such smart little short-sleeved top designs in the thirties-era patterns I looked at while researching this post that I could hardly choose among them.





This little girl's striped dress pattern originally appeared in The Australian Women's Weekly, on August 13, 1938, and is a free pattern.





This design is the Bairnswear 561 pattern and it's from the late thirties. It's available from The Vintage Knitting Lady as a photocopy for £1.99 or as a PDF for £1.50.





This Swagger Coat is a Corticelli design and is available on Subversive Femme as a free pattern. I saw other swagger coat patterns while I was researching this post and it seems to have been a recognized style for coats to have a tab fastening at the top of an otherwise buttonless coat. The existence of a Swagger Coat style and the Swagger Scarf above makes me think swaggering must have been a thing in the thirties.

Monday 8 July 2013

Knit Uncensored


The machine-knit piece above, Knit Uncensored, is a 2005 piece by British textile artist Kelly Jenkins, who likes to play against common knitting stereotypes in her work.





Knit Chatlines is another of her knitted pieces from 2005. Jenkins creates the images for these afghan-sized pieces on a computer, machines knits them, and then hand-embroiders the finishing touches. You can see more of Kelly Jenkins' knitted art here, and see the other works in her portfolio and learn more about Jenkins on her website.

Sunday 7 July 2013

Reliving Those Schoolgirl Suspensions in Suspenders


This is the "Dirndl Plaid Suspender Skirt", designed by Pauline Denham, circa 1965. It's for the woman who wants to recapture those schoolgirl days by wearing a hideously unflattering version of her school uniform. But these are very specific schoolgirl days we're talking about. These are not "prom queen who dated the hot football captain" schoolgirl days, or "brainy school newspaper editor with a cute and witty boyfriend" days, or "wild girl who dated the bad boys and got suspended for smoking pot behind the gym", or even "average girl who dated the usual gamut of boys and in between times had lots of fun with her friends". No, these are "awkward dork girl who was too bashful to make friends, spent the night of every school dance alone in her room crying and writing shitty poetry and eventually succumbed to the overtures of her pervy English teacher until she could no longer hide her pregnancy under the bulkiest of skirts and he got arrested for statutory rape" days.

I really don't know why anyone would want to revisit those memories, but the way to do it is with a qualified counsellor, not with, let alone in, this knitting project. And don't even get me started on the psychological motivation behind that Marcia Brady hairstyle.

Saturday 6 July 2013

Chanelling Chanel


Perhaps you have a certain fetish for all things Chanel, but can't afford, or don't wish, to lay out the several thousand dollars it would take to buy a genuine Chanel piece. And, since you've got some knitting skills, you wonder if you might create a Chanel-esque piece for yourself. If so, you're reading the right blog post, because I've paid my own little tribute to the House of Chanel by putting together a post of ideas and information on how to knit your own Chanel-style vêtements et accoutrements.

The photo above is of a genuine two-piece Coco Chanel knitting pattern, published in 1935. It has a Ravelry pattern page, but you may have great difficulty tracking down a copy of the pattern as it is long out of print. But if you succeed, it will be well worth the effort, as the booklet that the Chanel pattern is in also contains a genuine Elsa Schiaparelli design for a one-piece dress. (I mean, holy shit, that Bucilla booklet must be the holy grail of vintage knitting pattern booklets.) Recreating the pattern from the picture is also a possibility for skilled knitters.

The most accessible Chanel-style knitting project is probably a Chanel-esque jacket. If you're serious about knitting yourself a Chanel-like jacket, you really must begin by reading an excellent article from Yarnstylist on how to do so. In it, the Yarnstylist poster discusses the reasons why a Chanel-style jacket must fit perfectly, must be knitted with a fine-gauge, high-quality yarn, must be expertly lined, and must be carefully finished. There is also an accompanying article on why it's so difficult to find a knitting pattern that looks enough like a Chanel design to be satisfactory.

And once you've read those, perhaps you'd like to have a look at the selection of Chanel-inspired knitting patterns that I've put together.





The Window Panes pattern, by Judy Andersen, probably comes as close as any pattern I've seen to looking like a genuine Chanel jacket in terms of texture, details and fit. Alas, it may take some doing to find this pattern. It was in Knitter's Magazine 80 which came out in Fall 2005, and the issue doesn't seem to be available on their website anymore. (ETA: As you can see from the comments for this post, one of my readers tracked down Knitter's Magazine 80, and it seems that despite what the Window Panes design's Ravelry page says, it is not in that issue, but is in Knitter's Magazine 81, Winter 2005, so if you're interested in making this pattern you'll need to look on eBay for that number instead.)





The Chanel-ish Cardigan, by Mary-Heather Cogar, is probably the other nearest knitted imitation I found to a Chanel jacket. This, unfortunately, is a rather lacklustre picture. This project has been done many times by other Ravelry members and you'll be able to see from their project photos that this sweater can look very sharp indeed. This pattern was published in Greetings from Knit Cafe, by Suzan Mischer.





Perhaps, though, you don't care to make a too-literal Chanel jacket, but only to evoke it by knitting something in a similar cut with one or more of the Chanel jacket's trademark characteristics. I love this Basketweave pattern, by Jean Frost, for its strikingly graphic rendering of a Chanel-like texture. One of the biggest challenges of making a knitted Chanel-style jacket is imitating the woven texture fabric in knitting without bulking up the sweater. This pattern tricks the eye into believing that this has been accomplished. This pattern appears in Jean Frost's book, Custom Fit Knit Jackets: Casual to Couture.





This Ladies Jacket pattern, by Renate Foos, offers Chanel-like details on a more casually styled version of the jacket. This pattern appeared in SMC Select Moments No. 014 by Coats GmbH and is available for free here.





This pattern, by the Phildar design team, looks to me like an updated version of a Chanel jacket, and it's adorable. But the pattern, from Phildar No. 066, Hiver 2011/12 Edition Limitée, is only available in French. Je suis très désolé!





If you don't care to make a too-authentic looking project, Khloe Chanel-Inspired Jacket, by Teresa Chorzepa, as it simply evokes the Chanel style with its texture and cut. This pattern is a $6(USD) download.





If you want something to wear with your newly finished knitted Chanel jacket, or the idea of knitting a Chanel jacket is too much, you might consider knitting the CoCo purse, by Janine Le Cras. The pattern is a free Ravelry download.





If you don't care to wear any knitted version of Chanel's designs, you could always make some Chanel-inspired toys. The Chanel-suited bunny and Chanel modiste bunny patterns, both by Loly Fuertes, are available for $4.50(USD) each.