Twist Collective's Winter 2012: A Review

Twist Collective is yet another online knitting magazine that I had never heard of before I launched this blog and that was a happy discovery. It's a thoroughly professional production, unlike some online-only magazines, which tend to have that start-up or grassroots look. Incidentally, if there's a knitting magazine you'd like me to review, flip me a link via email. Just keep in mind that the magazine will have to have a website and preview pictures for me to be able to do my thing.

Let's have a look at Twist Collective's Winter 2012 Issue.

It always amazes me how the simplest little touch, like the lace stitch used on the cowl and double pocket on this sweater, can make a very basic pattern look fresh and distinctive.

I'm not a fan of buttonless cardigans, but putting a belt tie on this one makes it look really pulled together in both the literal and the figurative sense.

When I saw this cardigan I was going to not include it because it didn't look like anything special, but when I looked at the close up shot I saw some interesting detail. I'd maybe make this one in a solid colour yarn because any variation in the colour will compete with the design.

Nice little pullover with some interesting detail. Though it looks like a summer sweater to me. Lengthening the sleeves and making it a richer colour would "winterize" it.

This very, very delicate wrap looks at first glance more like tatting than knitting, and could probably double as an evening shawl.

Great use of self-striping yarn. It adds complexity and sophistication to what would otherwise be a pretty standard fair isle hat and mittens set.

I have just two nitpicks to make about this cardigan: that it's wrap-front and that the mini shawl collar isn't quite working in front. I have my doubts about how both the front of the cardigan (see how the model is clutching it?) and the collar would sit (or rather, not sit) over the course of the day. Otherwise the sweater is beautiful and the back looks fantastic, although the collar is rolling up in the back.

Love these mittens. Twist Collective seems to be really good at picking colourwork hat and mitten patterns that look like they're intended for adults. Usually intarsia hats and mittens look like they're strictly recess wear.

Simple, pretty pullover with a bit of interesting detail.

Nice striking vest. You could put this with a plain white shirt and black trousers and it'll make your outfit.

Nice classic coat, if a little hard to wear because of its tendency to bulk up a woman's figure. Make sure you make it big enough, because this kind of textured stitch has a slightly elastic quality — you can see the button bands pulling a little apart on this model.

Oooh, love this cardigan. The pictures for the patterns in this grouping are all tagged with the word "vintage", and I can see why when I look at this one. This looks like one of the sophisticated, striking, detailed yet wearable pieces worn by 30s and 40s movies stars. My one criticism, which unfortunately is not a minor one, is that the neckline is so poorly designed. There's no way that sweater could be buttoned to the top without half-choking the model. If you want to buy this pattern and don't like feeling like your neckline is cutting into your neck, make sure you've got the skills to adjust that neckline. It's not going to be at all easy to do that without ruining the effect of the leaves around the yoke.

I don't know why this cardigan was included in such a good collection of designs. My guess is that the little buttonless opening at the waistband is supposed to echo the collar's design, but this isn't a collar you want to draw attention to, and the sweater just looks crude and unfinished.

I do really like this jacket, but again, the texture is going to give it bulk and a tendency to contract, so make sure you knit it big enough, because the button bands are pulling open on this model.

This one looks like the perfect around-the-house sweater, and it'll be quick and easy to make. You can go with a playful colour combination like this one here, or upgrade the look by choosing a more classic colour and style of buttons.

Nice cardigan! The stripes and cables pattern is smart, and I like the buttons that continue across the ends of the collar.

I'm not a fan of the Peruvian cap, which tend to look just too goofy on non-Peruvians over 30. In The Language of Clothes, Alison Lurie wrote something along the lines that inappropriate headgear tends to make people sillier than any other odd wardrobe choice, perhaps because it's so close to where they think. I included this for the sake of the yarn, which I love... ahhh, those rich blues and golds are in such wonderful harmony.

Perfect hoodie. It actually has full-length sleeves, which is rare in knitting patterns. Sometimes I wonder if there was a sleeve-length revolution that I missed out on.

I like the texture of this piece and it's striking and original, but I find myself wondering if it wouldn't work better as a throw on a couch in a very cool, modern, loft apartment than as a wrap for a woman. It doesn't help that we can't tell from these pictures whether it has any shaping at all.

I quite like this simple pullover that's been turned into something striking with the use of just a little detailing at the neckline, cuffs and hem, but the neckline is folding in half on the model, which doesn't bode well for how it may sit on you in real life.

There are some striking details on this cardigan that really make it look distinctive: the cable pattern at the one shoulder and opposite side, and the curving tops of the pockets.

I'm not a big fan of cardigans that only button at the top (very few women are all that comfortable with the feeling that their sweaters are acting as theatre curtains parting and leaving their stomach area centre stage), but this one is so beautiful otherwise that it'll do. The back, with its sideways cables, is really stunning, and it looks like the hood has some interesting detail as well.

Another pretty hat and mittens set.

I wasn't going to include this one until I noticed the cable detail at the waist. That might give the sweater some waist shaping, but it's impossible to tell from this picture if it does.

Mismatched socks wouldn't normally be my thing, but such is the power of really good design that these actually look eye-catching and fun without looking the least bit silly.

I love this sweater, which looks amazingly flattering and well-shaped for such a heavy knit, but, well, toggles. Some engraved steel buttons would have looked amazing on this item.

This hat and cowl set is only half successful. The hat looks great, and the cowl just looks too insubstantial to sit properly or to be warm. Judging from the cowls I've seen, they do need to have a certain bulk to them to look right. When the edges show, when they are just a single thickness of knitting sitting limply around someone's neck, they just look too wimpy to be up to the task of being a cowl. If you want to make something to go with a hat that's knitted in, say, a DK weight yarn or anything lighter (and this set is in Shalimar Yarns' Breathless, which is a fingering weight), make a scarf, not a cowl.

A Run of Christmas Stockings

The Christmas stocking in the Tangled Holiday 2012 issue that I reviewed yesterday made me want to do a Christmas stocking post. There are loads and loads of knitted Christmas stockings on the web (a search for "Christmas stocking" produced 30 pages of hits on Ravelry alone), so I'll just post a selection of a few of the ones I like the most.

These fair isle stockings are pretty and striking, and would be a great way to use up odds and ends of yarn.

After ten minutes spent scrolling down through a lot of very similar stockings, these really popped out at me. The designs, from Judy Tollefson, are beautiful and original and yet still look Christmassy. They are by far the best designed stockings of any I've included in this post.

These are eye-catching and fun and colourful, and the kind of thing a child will love, and yet are still attractive to adult eyes.

Contemporary Holiday Decorations design by Other Metro Etsy

I like the simplicity of these ones, but if you make a set for your household, you might want to put names on them to avoid potential hair-pulling arguments as to whose stocking is whose early Christmas morning.

A simple and classic pattern from Red Heart. Though the shape does look a little rough.

One thing to remember if you're going with patterns like these is that you don't have to make it in the usual Christmas colours. The snowflakes and the fact that it's, you know, a stocking hanging from your mantlepiece in December, will keep it looking Christmas-appropriate. This could look good in any contrasting colourway, and two colour-stranded knitting like this is a good chance to pair some self-striping yarn with an ivory or a cream.

These are cute. I can imagine a whole array of these for the family, because you could put a different Christmas symbol on each one: an angel, a candy cane, a Santa, a snowman, etc.

Love the subtle colourways and great design of these Scandinavian stockings.

Very pretty snowflake stocking. This must be the first time I ever actually liked anything knitted with glitter yarn.

Really clever design on this one: a classic Scandinavian pattern adapted to include holly berries, and the colourway is non-traditional yet still very Christmassy.

Very pretty holly stocking.

After all the above, I'm rather abashed to be saying that my own handmade Christmas stocking is not knitted, but needlepointed from a kit I bought at Value Village for $6. The knitted stockings tend to look droopy when empty and bulge out of shape whenever they have anything in them, while the needlepoint, being stitched on canvas, holds its shape. Alas, it will not stretch to hold more goodies the way the knitted stockings do, but then my stocking is purely decorative anyway. I live alone and Santa skips my house.

Tangled Holiday 2012: A Review

The webzine Tangled has posted its Holiday 2012 patterns. Let's have a look, shall we?

This hat and cowl has a kind of sad, defeated look, like baked cake and bread taken out of the oven too soon. I like the buttons, at least the ones on the hat, and I like the stitchwork on the hat and the idea of using it on the cowl, but the cowl looks thin and limp and as though it won't actually keep your neck warm, and the hat looks like it's collapsing on top. The set just doesn't have that polished, finished look good design has.

Very nice Christmas stocking. I like the finished look of the picot edging on the top.

These fingerless gloves are crocheted, not knitted, but there are only four patterns in this issue, so I included them anyway. They'll catch on everything you touch and probably won't keep your hands warm in cold winter weather, but if you're crocheting anything in a lace weight kid mohair, you're probably not aiming for practicality anyway. However, even if you are knitting light, lacy fingerless gloves purely for their looks, you could surely find a better-looking pattern than this one. The lace pattern doesn't show well on this pair and they just look like they're all holes and snags.

Classic and practical hat and scarf that you can wear anywhere and, judging from the last hundred years or so, that will never look out of date.

Have a Ball!

Knitted Christmas tree baubles seem like such a great idea. They're a good way to recycle scratched glass Christmas tree baubles, or alternatively, if you wanted to just stuff them, they'd be child-safe. They'd be a good way to use whatever odds and ends of yarn you have lying around. They could be knitted up so quickly and they should be quite durable. And there's so much scope in their design. You can make them in any colour or style you like, and add beads, lacework, Aran cables, argyle or fair isle patterns, Christmas symbols or phrases or whatever you please. Here are some examples, with links to patterns when available. It would be pretty easy to take the basic pattern and adapt it to achieve whatever look you wanted.

The photo above is of the 7 Colorwork Christmas Ornaments, designed by Meg Hollar. The pattern is available for $5(USD).

This is the Luxury Christmas Ball, designed by Daniela Johannsenova. The pattern is available for free.

These designs are the Julekuler patterns, by Arne & Carlos, and are published in their book 55 Christmas Balls to Knit: Colorful Festive Ornaments.

This is the Deck the Balls design, by Sonia Ruyts. It's a free pattern.

This Sheep Balls pattern, by Dona Carruth, is simply too cute. It's a free pattern.

The Deck the Balls with Aran, by Kelly Jensen makes each ball look like it's wearing its own little sweater. This pattern is available for $6(USD).

The Knitted Lace Ball, by Judy Gibson, is delicately beautiful and doesn't even require an inner bauble. It's a free pattern.

The Fuzzy Christmas Baubles design, by Fran Welch, give us a good way to use up some leftover kid mohair. This is a free pattern.

For Those Who Can't Define Steampunk, But Know It When They See It

Are you into steampunk? Which, in case you've never heard of it, is a movement involving the creation of clothes, art, fiction, furnishings and other items in a way that blends Victorian, science fictional, and fantastical elements. Steampunk creates a sort of alternate history, or looked at another way, is the future as the Victorians might have imagined it. I'm not into steampunk, although I find steampunk theme outfits and items a lot of fun to look at. But those who are into steampunk must nearly all be into crafting as well, as they'd have to be in order to acquire such elaborate, fitted, unusual costumes at a reasonable cost. And I'm sure making stuff is a big part of the subculture's attraction. Yes, a lot of steampunk enthusiasts just glue some gears on a doily and call it a day, but some aficionados bring an incredible level of skill, effort, ingenuity, and artistry to their work.

When I got the idea to google steampunk knitting, I found that a lot of the boot toppers, fingerless gloves, elaborate collars and other accessories that I see so many patterns for and that tend to look somewhat absurd and pointless when worn with contemporary clothing suddenly make perfect sense when worn with a steampunk costume. Perhaps it is due to steampunk's influence that we're seeing so many Victorian-inspired accessories in mainstream knitting magazines right now. Mainstream designers have a long history of drawing inspiration from subcultures, but there's an authenticity and specificity to the subculture's use of an idea that does tend to get lost in translation when the concept goes mainstream.

Here's a small selection of well-designed steampunk knitting projects I've come across. Some are very wearable by contemporary standards, and I've included links to patterns or to the website where the pattern could be bought whenever there was something along those lines to be linked to.

The designer of the cardigan above, called the Ruby pattern, says that when she wears her Ruby sweater people stop her in the street to ask her about it. I believe it.

Truly lovely capelet.

This hooded cowl is one of the items that could conceivably be worn in daily life, if you have the neck length to carry if off. I'd think many steampunkers choose projects with an eye to what will do double duty.

This ruffled collar is one of those items that bemuse me when offered in a mainstream knitting mag, but that I suddenly get very enthusiastic about when I think of it as a part of a steampunk outfit.

I'm really impressed with the quality of this top hat. The "handmade look" is one thing, the "homemade look" quite another. Nothing about this hat says homemade.

A trio of fingerless glove designs. The first two are pretty wearable for everyday use, the "Tudor Rose" gloves probably aren't, unless you have a very whimsical, playful personal style and everyone in your life has just learned to roll with it, but they are so fanciful and well-designed and pretty that they're a pleasure just to look at.

Spats seem to be a popular knitting project among steampunkers. I suppose they hide the fact that one's shoes aren't exactly steampunk canon.

This picture obviously isn't styled in a steampunk manner, yet these lace stockings are quite suitable for a steampunk costume. And it works the other way too. Many of the more overtly steampunk projects on Ravelry aren't getting knitted in a steampunk style by the Ravelry members who've been knitting their own versions.

Perhaps inevitably, there's a book of steampunk knitting patterns, and it's so beautiful I'm rather lusting after it myself. I mean, just look at that cover. Needles and Artifice is available from Cooperative Press in both digital and print form. And the remaining five patterns are all from the book.

This picture looks like it might have been taken for Vogue Knitting. This cap is wearable for every day, and the collar could be carried off by the right person.

I would totally wear this.

I must admit, writing this post made me want to play dress up so I could put on an outfit like this one.

Doesn't look too comfortable, but I can see some steampunk enthusiasts becoming even more so upon seeing this.

This a pattern for when you want to be steampunk from the inside out, and/or if you want to seduce your steampunk boyfriend right out of his waistcoat and spats. The top is totally wearable as a little summer top. The bloomers you probably couldn't carry off as street wear without looking odd, but then if you're making these bloomers for yourself, you probably don't mind looking a little odd even in everyday dress.

The Y Bomb

Yarn bombing, the practice of decorating or covering large objects in public spaces with knitted or crocheted items, seems to have begun in 2005 and has grown into a worldwide movement. With the growth in yarn bombing's popularity has come some criticism, the most common being that it's a waste of time and yarn. Yarn bombers are quick to point out that no one says an artist who is painting a park bench is wasting time and materials. True, although since the artist is probably using paint chemically engineered to withstand the elements, the bench art will last much longer than a tree trunk cozy. Then too, the bench artist has probably been commissioned by public officials to paint the bench, while the yarn bomber often hasn't, and could technically be considered a vandal, albeit one who does no lasting harm.

I'm a little bit conflicted as to how I feel about yarn bombing. I'm a very practical person, and everything I make has to meet something I call the "utility quotient", by which I mean that if I'm going to spend X number of hours making something, it has be an item that will last and be used for at least X number of hours, and preferably more. I've never been able to get into making Halloween costumes because I can only wear them once a year. I've never really liked cooking much because a meal takes the same 20 minutes to eat regardless of how much or how little time the cook spent preparing it. So I do not want to do any yarn bombing myself. But while I also don't want to condemn yarn bombing, I do think that like any hobby, it's best practiced with some restraint and self-awareness.

This topic hits something of a nerve with me because of the thinking I've been doing for the last year or so about leisure-type activities. The lengths to which North Americans go to pursue their hobbies alternately awes and appalls me. I used to volunteer with a woman who was into quilting, and she told me about a weekend road trip she was planning with a friend, which trip involved them driving from Toronto, Ontario, to somewhere in West Virginia for the sole purpose of looking at a quilt. A former co-worker of mine once drove over an hour to get to, and spent all one Sunday afternoon attending, a basset hound owners' picnic with her basset hound puppy. My father, who is a very talented woodworker, flew to Norway with my mother in the summer of 2011 to go on a woodworkers' cruise. There are video gamers who spend forty hours a week gaming, and this is on top of holding down a full-time job. And of course there are mountain climbers and deep sea divers who travel the world for the sake of finding new heights to climb and new depths to dive to.

I'm not about to condemn any hobby as an outright waste of time. Practically any endeavour can become worthwhile if one brings a sufficient level of effort, intelligence and creativity to it. And lots of hobbies, though they may not be what you could call productive in themselves, yield benefits. They might be good physical exercise, be educational, keep the brain challenged and active, or give one the opportunity to make like-minded friends and become part of a community. Sometimes they can be developed into a money-making business, at which point they can be said to have stopped being a hobby. Or they can just be purely for fun, and that's just fine. Simple enjoyment is a worthwhile end in itself; one cannot and should not work all the time.

But I do get appalled when I see leisure time activities pursued to harmful excess. Though I won't condemn any particular activity, it's also fair to say that not all leisure activities are equally worthwhile. Some are flabby pleasures, activities that demand almost nothing from us and that will degrade us physically and mentally if we spend too much time on them. Spending the entire evening watching TV and loafing on the couch with a bag of chips is fine once in a while, but if you do it every night of your life, or even every other night, you won't like the long-term results. And on average, North Americans are doing almost exactly that; it's been estimated that the average Canadian spends 21 hours a week, or a quarter of their lives, watching TV.

Even the most worthwhile of hobbies can be problematic when indulged in to excess, if they are carried to the point that we neglect other, more important things, such as physical care of ourselves, relationships or livelihoods or other responsibilities, or life goals. Leisure time activities can become a black hole in which we can lose our way in life, our ambitions, our obligations, ourselves. I think often of a guy I knew in my early twenties who owed his ex-girlfriend $2000. She was on social assistance because she couldn't get work after an inter-provincial move, and he never sent her a penny, but somehow during the same time frame he had $1200 to spend on Laser Quest — he told me so himself. His playing Laser Quest in this context was both selfish and the means to suppress any awareness that he was being selfish; it was the snake eating its own tail. A few years later I met someone else who spent seven or eight hundred dollars a month and almost all her free time on ballroom dancing and clothes shopping, and then expected everyone she knew to listen to her feel sorry for herself because she didn't have a house or retirement savings, or the time to take courses to qualify herself for a better job than the one she had and hated, or even to clean her one-bedrooom apartment.

In this world, 35,000 children die of starvation of every day, and over a million people make their living from picking garbage dumps. Even in first world countries there are so many problems that need to be solved, and so many people who need a helping hand. And yet many of those who are comfortably circumstanced, who spend hundreds of dollars and a hundred hours or more a month on frivolous pursuits, claim they have "no time" to volunteer and "no money" to donate to charity, nor even the time to inform themselves on current events and to vote. It's no wonder the rest of the world resents North Americans the way they do.

After writing and considering all the above, it seems to me any hobby is fine if pursued with a certain mindfulness and sense of proportion. Things like TV-watching, internet surfing, crafting, sports, artistic pursuits, video games, recreational shopping, and reading trashy books are all very well (I wouldn't want to live in a world without them), but they do need to be kept in their place.

I see no reason why yarn bombing can't be just as worthwhile as many other more common leisure activities, or why it should get any less respect than, say, golf. Yarn bombing can be made to serve a larger purpose. As you can see from the photos of yarn bombing I've included in this post, yarn bombing can be a way of making a political statement, a way of getting people talking and thinking about an issue. Yarn bombing is an undeniable attention grabber. If you were to walk down the street and pass a bus covered in crochet, you would notice the decorated bus because would be impossible not to notice it. And then given all the people who will see the bus, at least a few will be bound to take a picture of it and put it on the net. It will get covered in the local news, and possibly be picked up by larger media outlets. In a noisy, busy world like this one, attention-getting stunts like yarn bombing can be very useful in terms of promoting events or raising awareness for causes. Yarn bombers who harness that power can hardly be said to be wasting their time and materials, especially when yarn bombing is only one, fun part of what they're doing with their lives.

(All photos taken from Time magazine's photo essay on yarn bombing, which can be viewed here.)