Knit n' Style December 2013: A Review

It's September 2013, and to a knitter that can only mean one thing: the December 2013 issue of Knit n' Style is out. And in it we have some misnomer pattern names and pom poms running amok. Let's have a look at it, shall we?

This is the Knit Penelope Jacket. It's not terrible, but it's not great either. It's just a fairly basic cardigan with sleeves that are too long.

This is the Crochet Penelope Jacket. It actually looks a little more stylish than the knitted version because it's not buttoned so primly, but there remains the sleeve length problem.

This is the Chevron Stripes Scarf. I like it. The colours are good and it's simple yet eye-catching.

The Wavy Edge Cardigan is a nice classic piece.

This is the Delightful Duo. Or rather, it isn't. The gradient stripe turtleneck underneath is a perfectly nice piece, but that... thing... they've paired with it is not. It looks to me like that turtleneck got involved with that.... thing.... too young, and just didn't wake up to the fact that it could do better than a garter stitch mini-vest with pom poms until they were married and had had a couple of pairs of fingerless mittens and it was too late. I'd call this set of patterns the Miserable Mésalliance.

This is the Musket Cardigan, and it's a nice piece. I like the texture, and the button strap detail on the cuffs is a nice touch.

This is the Jungle Girl Coat. I think it's probably been named after the yarn used to make it, which was a misstep, because the yarn selection isn't great. That muddy-looking variegated yarn isn't going to be the choice of many knitters who want to make this nice simple jacket.

This is the Leaf and Cable Vest. I see the leaves and cables, but I don't see a vest. But I do understand the dilemma faced by the editors of Knit n' Style; there's no existing term for this look that I know of. It's neither shrug nor spencer nor vest. It's really a scarf with seams and pretensions, but that's not exactly catchy. My best suggestion is that we adapt an old nineteenth-century term and call this kind of constructed scarf a hug-me-tight. A hug-me-tight was a sleeveless, close-fitting, usually knitted vest (similar to the spencers and shrugs of today), worn in the latter half of the nineteenth century, with the term itself dating from 1860. Sometimes it was constructed in the crossover style seen here, and the term itself just sounds very fitting for a piece like this.

With that settled... to critique the Leaf and Cable Hug-Me-Tight itself. I like the texture very much. I'm not sure about the style. I think it's passable and would look okay on a woman it suits, but there are better examples of this kind of garment out there.

This is the Ladies First pattern. It's okay. I'm not crazy about the ruffled sleeves, but that's probably more because they'd wind up in my soup if I wore them rather than because they don't look nice.

This is the Ruffled Edge Cardigan. And it looks as though someone who works in the financial sector in Boston decided to make her own Hawaii holiday wear by stapling a couple of leis to the edges of her faithful slate gray bamboo cardigan. I'm afraid of what this person might do once she actually gets to Hawaii and gets a couple of Mai Tai drinks in her.

This is the Swing Jacket. It's not bad. It's actually a pretty nice example of a swing jacket with good construction. I don't think the swing jacket a particularly easy style to carry off, but it can work on the right person if worn over an otherwise fitted outfit.

This is the Sweet Georgia pattern, and I quite like it. It has cute, flattering lines. Don't care for the yarn choice though, as I find it a little dreary.

The Scarlett jacket and cap. This looks for all the world like an outfit from one of my mother's magazines from the very early eighties. It's not a bad pattern, from what I can tell. That dark yarn makes it difficult to see the details. I don't care for the way the front of the jacket sits and would be inclined to add buttons.

This is the Faux Cable Ensemble. I wish I could see the top of the dress better, but from what I can tell, I like the dress. The spencer isn't bad, if you like spencers, and it does go very well with the dress. I think the dress and shrug could look really sharp in a quieter or more sophisticated colour than this electric blue. The electric blue and particularly the awful string belt with beads turns the whole outfit into a costume typically put on the "older woman as sexual predator" stock character one sees in bad comedies. I'd like the whole cougar stereotype to disappear, and when it does I'd like it to take that string belt with it.

The Plumed Chanel Jacket. Because we all know Coco Chanel, with her love of clean-lined simplicity and practicality would have been the first to surround a woman's midsection with tiers of faux fur. If you need a palate refresher after looking at this one, you might check out this post on how to knit Chanel-like sweaters.

The Durante cardigan isn't bad, and could in fact look rather elegant on the kind of woman who can wear the drape-front, loose-fitting cardigan. If you don't have a particularly long neck, I'd recommend cutting down the number of scalloped rows bordering the front edges to maybe three. I love the seashell-like colours of this self-striping yarn, though it does feel a little too pastel and summery for a winter sweater.

The Waves on Inishmore pattern is something different. I know I'd condemn this design without the tie, but it actually saves the sweater from its unflattering horizontal lines and boxy shape by drawing the eye up and down, which is no mean accomplishment. But I still wouldn't make this pattern. I like the concept and potential of the tie, but it deserves a better execution than it got here.

The Izabel pattern. This design was skillfully constructed and this model is more or less getting away with the tiered ruffle sleeves, but then she's a model and that's why she's paid to wear these clothes. This top isn't going to be flattering on most women. If you don't believe me, wrap a ruffled bedskirt around both arms and look in the mirror.

The Holy Moly Socks. The colourful stripes on these socks are fun and cute, but then the designer inexplicably decided to add suckers to them. Perhaps she'd had too much squid for lunch. And washed it down with a bottle of Reisling.

The Geometric Lace Stole. This isn't a bad stole, but I would make the lace fringe shorter and thinner. It looks too heavy and afghan-like here.

These are purportedly the Elegant Hand Warmers, but this seems like another misnomer, as there's no elegance to be found here, unless it's in the evening clutch that is held in hands that are likely to be not only warm but hot with embarrassment. This pattern looks like a couple of chunky gauge swatches have been tacked onto a pair of ratty old doilies, and it's the worst "design" I've seen in some time.

The Maximum Pom Pom Scarf. Oh man. No good can come from putting a design including the words "maximum pom pom" on a grown woman, and it certainly hasn't here. This looks like a bunny killer's gruesome trophy necklace.

The Triple-Tail Scarf. Not a fan of this one. It's not terrible (unless I'm too shell shocked by the last two designs to know what's what), but this scarf just doesn't look like a design, which is to say, the product of concerted effort and skill. It looks like the product of a knitter who decided to slap some novelty yarn together to get it used up.

The Yorganza Holiday Scarf. Don't care for this one either. I think these ruffled chiffon novelty yarns would be best used to accessorize light summer wear, and the colours used here just look grimy to me.

The Pucker Scarf. After the last four patterns, it's such a relief to be able to say that I very much like this scarf. It's interesting, it's attractive, it will go with lots of your outfits, and it will keep you warm.

The Twist Neck Warmer. This is rather pretty in its delicate little way. I'd use a more unobtrusive style of button on it than has been used here.

The Minnetonka pattern. Classic fair isle tam and scarf.

The Yorganza Holiday Boa. I'm just not buying this as an elegant holiday look. Maybe it would look better if it were a better colour and were styled over a simple dress that needed a little extra touch of bling, instead of appearing as it does here like a bad tie-dyed item worn over a long-sleeved t-shirt.

The Pastiche Shrug. I rather like this one. That yarn is pretty and fun.

The Boston-Style Cap. I like this simple, openwork cap too. It's not going to be warm, of course, but a hat can be just a fun accessory.

The Checked Slouch. Nice piece, but I'd leave the pom pom off as it doesn't add a thing to this cap.

Pinned Up

Today's post is about the jewelry of knitting: the shawl pin. You might need a way to keep that drape front cardigan or lace shawl securely in place, and obviously your lovingly and intricately hand-knitted pieces deserve so much better than even the most discrete safety pin. So I've put together a sampling of shawl pins for your perusal. This doesn't pretend to be a "best of" post, as there are far too many beautiful shawl pins out there for me to choose among. No, these pins are simply some of those that caught my eye, and if you'd like something different I recommend a image Google search along the lines of "wood cat shawl pin" or "silver Celtic shawl pin" or whatever style and material you'd like.

Some of my favourite shawl pins were traditional Celtic pennanular brooches. You're in no danger of losing the pin with this style as it's fastened to the ring. The large silver penannular brooch above is from Isle of Mull Silver & Goldsmiths. Do remember that the penanular brooch is properly worn with the pin sticking up.

Love the quiet distinction of this one, the Off-Center Disk Shawl Pin, from Dreamweaver Yarns. The stick is rosewood and ebony.

This is the Sweet Pea Vine Shawl Pin, from Dreamweaver Yarns. The stick is rosewood and the ring white bronze.

This is the Garnet Heart Yarn Pin, from Adorn Handmade Jewelry, and it's handmade out of sterling silver. I recommend a look at the other styles available at Acorn Handmade Jewelry too.

This is the Filigree Sterling Silver Stick Pin from Goosepond.

This mother of pearl round pin is from Mary Maxim.

This dragonfly pin is from Sassy 2 Stitch. It's hand-carved from buffalo and steer horn.

This simple wooden pin is from Colorful Stitches.

This is the Flared-End Penannular Shawl Pin, from Stitch Diva Studios. A very simple, spare style of shawl pin might be the way to go if you want only one shawl pin, because then it will be likely to go with everything.

This is the Summer Stripe Wavy Shawl Pin, by Bonnie Bishoff Designs, available from Halcyon Yarn.

This shell shawl pin is from Annie's Crafts. There are many carved shell pins available, and they do tend to be among the least expensive shawl pins, although I can't answer for how well they'd survive a drop to the floor.

I would be remiss if I didn't feature some of the non-ring-and-stick style pins that are available. You can get a shawl pin that is just a simple stick pin, such as this Flower Stick Shawl Pin by Bonnie Bishoff Designs, available at Halcyon Yarn.

The other style available is the closed pin that resembles a safety pin. It's probably the most secure type of pin, but I do find it much less aesthetically pleasing than the ring and stick style pin. This orange bead pin is designed by Gina Reynolds, and is available from Knitting Boutique.

Knitty Deep Fall 2013: A Review

Knitty has produced its Deep Fall 2013 issue. Let's have a look, shall we?

This is the Spice Trail from the East pattern. And I like the pattern, which has a lot of interesting details (love the leaf pattern) which follow the lines of the sweater well. A deep v-neck spencer isn't for everyone, but if you like the details they should be easy to render in a standard fit cardigan.

I may not love the Double Rainbow pattern, but I like it. The sleeves-only stripe concept is a bit different and more flattering than the usual striped midsection, and I like the roll neck as opposed to the usual turtleneck. It's wearable, it's cute, it's rather eye catching, and it isn't something that will take months to knit.

I really like the Hopwood pullover, with its cowl neckline and simple yet telling detail. This designer has really pulled the colour scheme together by echoing the flecks of apricot and purple in the main colour in her border colours. I'm adding this one to my favourites on Ravelry, and my Ravelry favourites are always projects I intend to knit at some point.

This is the Flippant cardigan. It's a nice piece of work and I like the detailing up the sleeves. It is a little small on this model, which is detracting somewhat from the whole.





This is the My Favorite Color Cardigan. It's a nice, simple piece of work with enough detail to keep it from getting boring and excellent construction. Great idea to hide the waist shaping in the back garter stitch panel.

The Sophia Loren pullover. I like this one too (am I not going to get to make fun of anything in this issue, Knitty?). It seems like a slightly updated take on the Fair Isle, with its fitted shape, face-framing yoke, and stripes.





The Annabella pullover had me at the placket and lost me at the muffin top. That deep waist band in twisted rib would be hard for any woman to wear, and the blousing effect where the top transitions into stockinette just makes it impossible to pull off. If you want to make this sweater, I'd cut down the twisted rib to no more than a few inches deep.





I'm not usually a fan of oversized sweaters, but I can't dislike the Agata cardigan. It was designed to be a way to showcase the jewel-like handpainted yarn, and it certainly does that. I suspect I wouldn't have been sold on it if it were in say, oatmeal yarn, or on the wrong person, but this yarn is beautiful and this model can carry it, so I'll give it a pass.

Quite like the Plum Rondo a la Turk pullover, with its vibrant colour and striking detailing.

The Deflect socks are a very serviceable pattern. I like that the author has been able to incorporate some cable detail without bulking up the sock.

The Circinus sock is kind of cool. The cabling on this design weaves in an out so that you see something different and unexpected from every angle of the sock.

Can't say I care for the Ridley knee socks. They're a mish-mash of too many elements, like they belong to a teenage girl who can't figure out if she wants to be one of the jocks, one of the yearbook editors, or one of whatever the clique of well-coiffed, confident girls is called at her high school. Honey, you can be all those things without trying to indicate it through your socks. Or at least not in a single pair of them.

The Hatters Gonna Hat design doesn't do it for me either. It looks like something that belongs on an elf from the Island of Misfit Toys, and specifically, one called Patches who is into recycling and saving the environment and made herself a hat from discarded doll sweaters.

The Hybrid Hat, which as you might expect is both knitted and crocheted, is a nice little piece. Very simple and pretty.





I like the Whorled hat too. I find the winter winds in Toronto tend to blow through a loosely knit or lacy hat like this, but of course you may live in a climate with milder winters, or have a warmer hat for the really cold weather. This is, after all, a Deep Fall issue.

Love the Dreaming of Shetland tam, with its bright, fresh colourway and floral motifs. I also love that in one of the sample shots, this hat is being blocked over a dinner plate. You never see such nuts and bolts realism in Vogue Knitting. Not that I want it there. I do like that the different knitting magazines all have their own slant.

The Pussywillow mitts are a fun use of gradient yarn, though that yellow does give me retina burn.

The Warm-Hearted mittens are richly ornate. The use of purple and gold combined with a rich pattern always looks rather royal to me in a rather archaic way, as though if Queen Elizabeth I were alive today she would demand mittens like these.

I can't analyze this pattern on its aesthetic merits the way I normally do, but I will say the Beer Mitt made me laugh, and that if you're going to be attending a lot of outdoor frat parties this winter, you might as well make this Beer Mitt, and then keep it close to you during said parties, because someone will be likely to steal it from you.

If you have a beer cooler like this one at your house in mid-winter, you definitely need a Beer Mitt.

The Theobroma stole. It's pretty, though those pink beads are not the beads I would have chosen to go with the yarn used here. A yarn this sensible looking needs a less delicate-looking bead.

The Neauveau cowl is less a pattern than a way to display some textured handspun yarn.

The Empire State cowl takes its inspiration from Art Deco design, and I think it's a worthy successor, as it's sharply graphic. It looks much better worn doubled than single, though.

The Nymphalidea shawl really takes me aback — it's so unusual and beautiful in its own way. It's more like a piece of wearable art than a practical item, but that's fine. Sometimes beauty is its own justification.

The Leaves of Grass scarf is another really striking pattern. This scarf will be more noticeable than your coat. It does look to be of a rather unwieldy length and weight here, but of course you can make it in whatever gauge and length you wish.

"I wish you had taken up stamp collecting."

According to Franklin Habit, if Albert Einstein and Queen Elizabeth were married, they might have had this conversation about Albert's intended Christmas present. Or this conversation about Queen Elizabeth's birthday present.

The Mary Maxim Sweater

When I did a special Canada Day post last July 1st, a commenter pointed out that I'd missed the most iconic Canadian knitting pattern of all, the Mary Maxim sweater. She was quite right, and I replied that I planned on doing a special Mary Maxim sweater post at some point. Well, here it is.

Mary Maxim is the largest privately held craft and needlework mail-order company in North America. The company was founded in the 1950s by Willard and Olive McPhedrain, who had been running a company called Sifton Wool Products Ltd. which sold wool blankets and socks. Willard saw possibilities in the hand-knitting market, and set his designers to work creating sweater patterns. The patterns sold well, and Willard derived a new name for his company that had a more homely, relatable appeal from the name of the McPhedrains' maid, Mary Maximchuk. Sixty years later, Mary Maxim has store locations in Paris, Ontario, and at Yonge and Eglinton in Toronto, Ontario, as well as an American office in Port Huron, Michigan. Most of Mary Maxim's revenue is derived from their catalogue and online sales.

Mary Maxim can definitely count me among their customers. They are one of the three companies from which I generally buy yarn, and are my main source for needlework supplies. I very much enjoy shopping at their Toronto store, I occasionally order some items from Mary Maxim online, and I can never forget how much I loved getting a parcel from them as a teenager. I grew up on a farm, the only craft store I ever got to visit was a good hour's drive away and wasn't exactly up to par anyway, and being able to buy anything I wanted from Mary Maxim's comprehensive catalogue was the best thing ever.

My catalogue lands in my mailbox at regular intervals and I still read it with enjoyment, though also with some bemusement. Besides the craft kits, patterns, needlework tools, and yarn you'd expect, they've branched out into offering oddball household gadgets such as an electric dog treat maker, an expandable back scratcher, a "detoxer" foot bath, pajama jeans, and other products of the kind one sees advertised on TV infomercials.

Tucked among all these items is the best-known Mary Maxim product ever — the classic bulky weight cardigan patterns based on the Cowichan sweater. Their reindeer cardigan is the first pattern Mary Maxim ever produced, and they still sell it. There are many of these patterns now and they feature quite a variety of images, which are usually either some type of animal or sports figure. To be honest, I find most of these bulky cardigans hideous. But there's no denying the Mary Maxim sweater's iconic status in Canada. The Mary Maxim sweater is familiar to most Canadians. If you didn't have one yourself when you were growing up, at least one of your friends did, and you didn't hear them complaining about being cold or uncomfortable.

The most appealing of the Mary Maxim sweater designs are those which are most similar to the Cowichan sweater. (Some are, indeed, nearly indistinguishable from an authentic Cowichan sweater.) This is a picture of Bob Hope sporting his Mary Maxim totem pole sweater.

This is a screen cap of Angela Lansbury as Jessica Fletcher in episode two of the first season of Murder She Wrote, staying warm in a Mary Maxim fish sweater while on the cold trail of a murderer.

Mary Maxim sweaters aren't really city wear. One sees them much more often in small towns or in rural areas. But of course they can always be worn anywhere if worn ironically, as they are here on the cover of the Barenaked Ladies' 2004 Christmas album. I remember reading at the time that Mary Maxim sweaters were a hot item in Toronto's vintage clothing stores, as hipsters had gotten into them. Literally.

"When I feel low, I just knit another row"

"The Knitting Song" is a 1964 Parlophone Records number by Bill Oddie, and it must be the only song in the history of pop to include instructions on how to knit in the lyrics.